MOUNTING CONFIGURATIONS 

THE VALVE INSTALLED ON THE VALVE MOUNTING SURFACE OF THE MOUNTING BRACKET PLACES THE CABLE ABOUT 1/2" FROM THE FIREWALL OR INNER FENDER MOUNTING SURFACE IN CONFIGURATION (1) OR 2 1/4" FROM MOUNTING SURFACE IN CONFIGURATION (2).

This configurtion shows the VALVE cantilevered on the front (outside) of the VALVE MOUNTING SURFACE (This places the VALVE further forward by adding an additonal 1 3/4"  more clearance from the firewall or inner fender providing more space for the operating cable if needed.

 

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INSTALLATION STEPS RECOMMENDED

STEP 1: PLAN YOUR CONFIGURATION FIRST WITH A MOCK UP: 

Prior to installation, we suggest a MOCKUP of the Mounting Bracket, Valve, Hoses and Cable to ensure sufficient clearance.  This includes hose configuration coming from the engine going into your heater valve and the hose coming from the valve going into the heater input pipe.  Use Duct Tape to place the Mounting Bracket on Firewall or Inner Fender.  Then lay out the MOCKUP of your hoses and cable into the Configuration checking all measurements.  You may have to trim the Operating cable flex winding and cut some of the cable wire back to avoid unnecessary crimping or bends in the cable if you do not have room to maneuver the cable under hood or the dash.  

If the Bracket mounting surface at 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" does not fit into your application very well, you can trim some of this rear bracket mounting surface either length or width and should still be able to maintain integrity to hold the Valve on the "Valve Mounting Surface (front)". Touchup the paint on any exposed trimmed surface with a matching semi-gloss black.  If you have eliminated the two holes at the top of the bracket, then just drill additional holes on that surface.  If you don't have an offset screwdrive, Use hex head screws for the holes that are down below the bracket cavity since those holes would be inaccesible by a regular screwdriver.

WE SUGGEST PURCHASING OUR INSTALLATION KIT (SOLD SEPARATELY - see details below) WHICH INCLUDES A 90 DEGREE HOSE SECTION AND A COUPLER TO MATE WITH YOUR PRESENT HEATER HOSE CONNECTED TO THE HEATER CORE.

STEP 2:  SETUP YOUR HEATER HOSE CONFIGURATION

We recommend mounting the Heater Control Valve a several inches to the Right of your Old Heater Valve and  just above the heater core inlet pipe that goes through the firewall (Leave enough room to clear the hood elements).  You can use your present heater hose if it will reach.  If the old heater hose coming from the inlet pipe is NOT long enough, then SEE THE PARAGRAPH SECTION BELOW TITLED: COMMENTS REGARDING HOSE BENDS:

HOSE SET UP FOR THE TWO VALVE MODELS: 

VALVE MODEL A

We recommend a molded 90 Degree 5/8" heater hose section to be installed on the Output Side. Note direction of ---->(Arrow pointing right) on the HEATER CONTROL VALVE Body [right side of VALVE A] as you face the Firewall or Inner Fender.

VALVE MODEL B

We recommend molded 90 Degree 5/8" heater hose section to be installed on the Output Side.  NOTE direction of <---- (Arrow pointing right) on the HEATER CONTROL VALVE Body [left side of VALVE A] as you face the Firewall or Inner Fender.

IF YOU DID NOT PURCHASE OUR INSTALLATION ACCESSORY KIT SHOWN BELOW AND CANNOT FIND THE ITEMS YOU NEED AT YOUR PARTS STORE THEN EMAIL US FOR HELP.

STEP 3. INSTALL MOUNTING BRACKET ON THE FIREWALL OR INNER FENDER

Install Valve bracket on the Firewall or Fenderwell in position of your choice. We suggest you tape the Bracket onto the Surface with duct tape. Punch mark 4 holes for drilling. Drill 3/32" or 1/8" holes. Then insert the #10 x 1/2" stainless pan head screws provided.   NOTE: If you have a lot of engine vibration we suggest you fit small lock washers on the pan head screws securing the bracket to the Firewall or Inner Fender.

STEP 4: DOUBLE CHECK THE VALVE OPERATION

Look into the orifice of the Control Valve to insure it is open when your Control Cable would be pulled.  

STEP 5: INSTALL THE VALVE ONTO THE MOUNTING BRACKET (VALVE MOUNTING SURFACE)

NOTE:  PUT THE HEATER HOSES AND HOSE CLAMPS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE VALVE.   WE RECOMMEND FULLY TIGHTENING THE RIGHT SIDE HOSE CLAMP SINCE THE VALVE'S CABLE BRACKET AND THE MOUNTING BRACKET RESTRICT ACCESS TO THE VALVE PIPE ON THE RIGHT SIDE.  YOU CAN NOW LAY THE VALVE IN THE MOUNTING BRACKET AND MATCH UP TO THE SCREW HOLES.  STEP 6 AND STEP 7 ARE THEN COMPLETE EXCEPT FOR TIGHTENING THE REMAINING HOSE CLAMPS.   

The Valve Mounting surface of the Bracket has 4 holes that match the mount holes molded on the Valve.  The Valve has two holes for mounting molded in the configuration and two dowel ends molded into 2 of the 4 positions. The dowel ends are about 1/8" in diameter diagonally positioned opposite of the two drilled mounting holes on the surface of the valve body. These dowels help set the Valve Body in position squarely.

Mount the Valve in between the front and rear surface of the Mounting Bracket. The Cable Clamp bracket is to the rear.   Slip the Valve to the right about 1" and place your right side hose on the Valve with the untightened hose clamp.  Then tighten the hose clamp as seen below.

Slip the Valve back to the left and mate the 2 dowels and 2 screw holes of the Valve with the 4 holes on the front mounting surface of the bracket.   Secure the Valve on the Mounting bracket with two (2) #7 x 3/8 hex head screws provided. NOTE:  When the hex head screw bottoms on the bracket surface, STOP, do not over tighten. 

NOTE: (CAUTION)  DO NOT USE ANY LONGER THAN 1/2" SCREW IN THE VALVE'S PREMOLDED HOLES AS  A LONGER SCREW CAN ENTER THE VALVE INTERNALS AND STRIKE THE VALVE BALL.

If mounting the Valve on the outside of Mounting Bracket (cantilevered) be sure that the Control Cable Bracket (with the Cable Clamp and Set Screw) is placed against the outside of the Valve surface of the Mounting Bracket, then mount the Valve on the outside of this (front) surface keeping the Control Cable Bracket mated to rear of the Valve and next to the Firewall or Fenderwell.  Remove the 2 screws holding the Cable Bracket then replace and secure the Valve with two #7 x 3/8" hex head (1/4" drive) mounting screws provided . NOTE:  When the hex head screw bottoms on the bracket surface, STOP, do not over tighten.

STEP 6: INSTALL HEATER HOSE COMING FROM THE ENGINE TO THE VALVE INPUT SIDE  (SEE FLOW DIRECTION ARROW ON THE VALVE) Daub some olive oil or light grease on the pipe ends of the Valve. Then push the hose coming out of engine onto the inlet pipe side of the valve. 

STEP 7: INSTALL HEATER HOSE CONNECTED TO THE HEATER CORE ON THE VALVE OUTPUT SIDE.     FOLLOW THE FLOW DIRECTION OF THE ARROW ON THE VALVE OUPUT SIDE.  Here you can use our INSTALLATION KIT, which includes the 90 degree molded hose section and Coupler that will mate to your old hose.   Making use of your present heater hose attached to the heater core outlet pipe, trim the hose end as necessary to mate with the 90 Degree molded 5/8" hose elbow section and Coupler provided in our INSTALLATION KIT; or your own hose sections as selected.

STEP 8: INSTALL THE CABLE PULL WIRE ONTO THE VALVE.     PLACE THE CURLED END OF THE CABLE PULL WIRE AROUND THE VALVE LEVER.    Depending on the repositioning of the Valve you may have to cut some of the solid cable control wire and the outer winding back aways.    If your cable is really old and stiff operating it is suggested that you may want to place a carburetor spring on the Valve Lever with the other end attached to the edge of the mounting bracket (you can form an eyelet fashioned at the end of the spring or from a piece of stiff wire that can be curled around a screw on the mounting bracket or to a screw independent of the bracket). 

Example Installation 

^^        As installed in a modified 1955 FORD F-100 Pickup with 302 V8        ^^

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IF YOUR MOUNTING SURFACE (FIREWALL/INNER FENDER) IS UNEVEN

We recommend purchasing rubber standoffs or rubber washers at your local Hardware Store.

Standoffs come in various lengths & diameters.   Measure and cut the standoffs to length to even up the placement of the Mounting Bracket surface against the Firewall or Inner Fender Mounting Surface. You will need to purchase longer screws in lengths that will end through the Firewall or Fenderwell about 3/8" to 1/2" into the 4 mounting holes.

If you are unable to locate a new 5/8" hose with bends to work for your particular application consider the following:

A. We recommend a 5/8 ABS Plastic Coupler (DORMAN "HELP" PART NUMBER 89042) be used to join the molded 90 degree heater hose section (if needed) to the current heater hose attached to the heater core piping.

B. We recommend GOODYEAR E-Z COIL or GATES UNICOIL ("COIL") for 5/8" hose to form any degree bends in the heater hose you need for the installation. For example: form a 90 Degree bend with the COIL at the output side heading toward your heater core and another COIL for a 90 Degree or other Degree bend into the heater pipe that goes through the firewall to the heater core.

Use your favorite hose clamps to secure the hose endings onto the related pipes or the Coupler.

INSTALLATION ACCESSORY KIT (SOLD SEPARATELY) INCLUDES THE FOLLOWING

ITEM 1. 90 Degree 5/8" MOLDED HEATER HOSE ELBOW  to be installed on the HEATER CONTROL VALVE output side running to the heater. Mock up would indicate how much to trim for a good match allowing for the 5/8" Coupler we furnish (ITEM 2 below).

ITEM 2. 5/8" (o.d.) Coupler (Molded ABS Plastic) to be Placed on the output side of the 90 Degree MOLDED HEATER HOSE, then mate to your old heater input hose after trimming to fit.

NOTE: THIS KIT SHOULD ACCOMODATE MOST INSTALLATIONS ENABLING YOU TO USE YOUR CURRENT HOSE ATTACHED TO THE INPUT COPPER PIPE ON THE HEATER CORE. YOU CAN TRIM THIS HOSE TO MATE WITH THE 90 DEGREE MOLDED HEATER HOSE WE PROVIDE IN THE ACCESSORY KIT.

HEATER HOSES WITH DIFFERENT DIMENSIONS SUCH AS 3/4" CAN BE REDUCED TO 5/8" WITH PARTS AVAILABLE AT YOUR AUTO PARTS SUPPLY.

We also suggest GATES UNICOIL OR GOODYEAR E-Z COIL for 5/8" heater hose which is available at Auto Parts Stores.  Parts Stores may have to order these from their wholesale supplier as they typically do not stock these on shelves.

IF YOUR OLD VALVE HAS A COPPER INPUT/OUTPUT PIPE SOLDERED ON   For some older vehicles you may have to cut off the copper pipe end of your current heater control valve and splice a 5/8" heater hose to mate with that old valve copper pipe on the output side.   Then use these parts:

(A) 90" Degree MOLDED HEATER HOSE ELBOW mated to the copper tube + Coupler (OUR INSTALLATION KIT)

(B) SPLICE OF 5/8" Heater Hose between the Heater valve and the Copper Pipe going into the firewall

PRODUCT PHOTOS SHOWING THE SETUP FOR CONFIGURATION 1 & 2 USING VALVE MODEL B:

1. SAMPLE OF VALVE MOCK UP INSTALLATION USING MODEL B WITH THE HOSE COMING FROM THE ENGINE ON THE LEFT SIDE AND THE HOSE GOING TO THE HEATER CORE ON THE RIGHT.

2. MOCKUP OF VALVE B INSTALLED ON OUTSIDE SURFACE OF MOUNTING BRACKET

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